Chestnut Hill Chimney & Hearth

(603) 755-4835


 

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FAQs:

1. What is green wood, seasoned wood? Why can't I burn green wood?

Green wood is quite simply wood that has not been dried yet (either by time or a kiln). Seasoned wood has 20% moisture content or less. The difficulty is that what most people sell as "seasoned wood" isn't. Wood must be cut, split, stacked and kept dry for at least one year to be seasoned wood. A tree that was cut down a year ago but not cut and split will not produce instantly seasoned wood, the bark will have prevented much of the water evaporation that needed to happen. Green wood does not burn well, producing much more creosote and much less heat than properly seasoned wood.  The difference in BTU output between wood with 50% moisture content to one with 20% moisture content is over 2000 BTUs per pound. Burning green wood is wasting heat. As a rule of thumb try to purchase and stack your wood a year in advance.

2. How important is "clearance to combustibles"? My install manual says the stove is too close to the wall but it didn't catch on fire and we used it all last year. And isn't a layer of brick under a stove enough protection?

Just because a material is non combustible doesn't mean it can't transfer heat through to a combustible wall or floor. Ignition temperatures of combustibles lowers with repeated heating, called pyrolization. Pyrolysis is the chemical decomposition caused by heat. The normal ignition temperature of wood may be around 500 degrees, but pyrolized wood will catch fire at 250 degrees. If the wood around your heat source looks blackened it is pyrolized. It may not catch fire immediately, but it will catch fire. Depending on the stove it can take anywhere from 2-4" of brick, with sufficient air spacing, and sheet metal on top, to make a safe floor protection. Brick, tile and stone are all non combustible, but they all transfer heat and cannot be used safely unless done correctly.

3. Why can't I clean my own chimney flues?

You can, if you have the proper equipment. Brushing a flue is not rocket science. So why call us? Well, you brush your own teeth everyday, but you still go to a dentist to get a professional cleaning with better equipment and also his evaluation of what is happening in your mouth, problems that need to be addressed like gum disease or cavities. Same thing with a professional sweep, we clean the flues with better quality equipment, have more tools at our disposal, won't make a mess in your house, and can check your flues for problems that you may not see, such as cracks in the flue tiles, water damage, animal nests, evidence of small chimney fires, etc. For more see Chimney Sweeping, or Chimney Inspections

4. My chimney flues only have a few small cracks, why do I need a liner?

First, according to the National Fire Protection's Fire Codes (which are used in NH and ME) any crack in a flue tile is cause for "condemning" the chimney. Cracks can allow flue gases back into your home (carbon monoxide) or creosote into the space around the flue or into the walls of your home. This creosote can catch on fire and the fire can spread rapidly through the walls of your home. Clay flues tiles can not be individually replaced because they are stacked and fragile. Metal liners will actually improve the venting of your appliance and is easier to clean, keeping your home safer. For more see  Chimney Liners, or Metal Chimneys

5. What do you heat with in your home?

Mark Jones uses a pellet stove as his primary heat source in his home, he does have an oil hot water heater and and oil furnace for back up, but has not turned on the furnace as a primary heat source for 2 years. He purchases his pellets through www.woodpellet.com, if you call the office we can give you a code which will give you a discount off your first purchase from them. We only use premium pellets. There is minimal difference between hard wood or soft wood pellets. For more see Which fuel is right for me?

We will be adding to these questions frequently. If you have a question that you feel should be addressed on this page please email it to chcsadmin@metrocast.net.


 

To make an appointment or for answers to questions please call us at 603-755-4835 or email

Mark (technical questions) chcs@metrocast.net 

Laura (all other questions) chcsadmin@metrocast.net